California Surfing Day is celebrated on Sept. 20.
The history of surfing in California dates back to the 1800s when three Hawaiian princes introduced the sport in Santa Cruz. Over time, surfing spread to other beaches in the mainland U.S., gaining popularity thanks to pioneers like Jack O’Neill, who revolutionized the industry with his neoprene wetsuits.
Jim Kempton, the executive director of the California Surf Museum, fondly remembers O’Neill as a friendly and welcoming figure in the surfing community. O’Neill’s legacy lives on, even after his passing in 2017 at the age of 94.
Surfers have always been a tight-knit community, deeply connected to their history and heritage. Kempton explains that surfing offers a unique adrenaline rush and a sense of freedom that is incomparable to any other sport.
When it comes to catching a wave, Kempton emphasizes the importance of experience and skill level. Popular surfing spots in California include Mavericks Beach, Steamer Lane, Trestles Beach, Swami’s Beach, Windansea Beach, and Rincon Beach.
Surfing will be featured in the 2028 Olympics in Los Angeles, following its debut as an Olympic sport in the 2020 Japan Olympics.