Commentary
Times of great social and political upheaval, epochs in which a paradigm shifts from one cultural moment to another, invariably involve changed fashions. It has become apparent in the world of menswear.
We are going back to jackets and neckties. Thank goodness and it is about time. A man is never fully dressed without a tie. From a purely aesthetic point of view, the tie completes the outfit. No open-collar shirt can achieve the same look.
This has been true for centuries, even back to the time of the cravat and all the crazy bows of the 18th and 19th centuries. The 20th century gave us the standard necktie and made it available to everyone, not just the elites. They have been standard for a reason: they look right. They suggest that the wearer should be taken seriously. It’s as simple as that.
It was only a couple of years ago that I was tottering around in a menswear shop and asked about ties and how they are selling. I was in the business in the old days so I’m always curious what people are buying. The man informed me that the tie is completely dead. No one buys them at all. He acted like this was a permanent shift.
I knew for sure that he was wrong. Ties come and go, and usually their disappearance is a sign that something major has gone wrong. They were fashionable in the early 1960s and vanished in the late 1960s with shock over assassinations and conscription. They returned in the 1980s and then vanished in the 21st century with the popularity of hoodies and tennis shoes among the tech bros.
Probably this had something to do with zero interest rates. This always flatters the people on the right side of the ledger. Why try when the money flows like magic?
Let me say this again: What you wear is not really about what you are saying about yourself; it is what you are saying about others, the occasion, and the venue. People dress up for court or for Congressional testimony and that has never gone away. It’s because they are showing respect for the institution.
These same people will not dress up for the office or for a cocktail party, so what message is that conveying by comparison? It should be obvious that it betrays a lack of respect and appreciation.
For years I’ve heard excuses for looking like a slob. I don’t have to impress people. My achievements stand on their own without having to put on a fancy get up. I’m more comfortable in sweats and sneakers. And so on.
None of this has anything to do with anything. How you dress is a direct reflection of your attitude toward the event and others there. This is why it is so sad to me to see people at the symphony dressed like they are at a baseball game. For that matter, it is sad to see people at a baseball game dressed like hobos.
What about the problem of overdressing? This is the least problem that exists in the entire world today. In fact, I cannot recall ever seeing an example.
Ok, one correction to that: if you are invited to a holiday party that is specified to be black tie, it is wrong to wear white tie and tails, which is more dressed up than black tie. That is the only case I can imagine in which you can be too dressed up.
(Black tie is what Americans call the “Tuxedo” but it is really the working-class uniform of the footmen in English estates. Americans adopted it as formalwear for everyone as an homage to democracy and a way of honoring workers over the idle rich. White tie is now what it has always been, the most dressed up anyone can be but certainly associated with aristocracy.)
I was recently in Texas and found myself in a normal hotel wearing a double-breasted suit, tie, and my usual winter cape. The driver was amazed and asked me why I was dressed that way. I explained that in advance of my trip, people told me that in Texas, people dress up, so I wanted to look the part. He was suddenly thrilled to hear it. Yes, it was a fib but it worked. The real reason is that I was seeing my mother: I always want to look my best around her.
Boarding a plane in a suit and tie becomes a different experience. The flight crew feels honored, and you will certainly get better service. It’s the same in any restaurant, no matter what. It’s true when you are out shopping also. In fact, it’s true even on a Sunday picnic at the park: I once wore a blazer and tie to an outdoor concert and could clearly observe that the band was thus made happy that someone went to the trouble.
The new interest seems to be driven by Gen Z, which associates back-to-the-office with actual office clothing and adulthood generally. Rightly so! Many years have gone by in which the boss was dressed down so seriously that new employees felt the need to emulate. But that seems to be changing as younger people clearly see the advantages.
Oddly, this is especially true in Zoom meetings. A person is shown only from the chest up so that one’s shoes or trousers do not matter.
However, opting for a tie can enhance your appearance and convey a sense of professionalism. It signifies that you are not one of those individuals who prefer to stay at home all day. Rather, you make the effort to come to the office dressed appropriately.
Let’s delve into the resurgence of the tie. During the lockdowns, there was a prevalent sense of shabbiness, with a pandemic chic trend emerging where clothing was intentionally made to look worn out, almost like a form of penance. This trend persisted for over two years, as if everyone had to adopt a self-flagellating approach.
Fortunately, those days are behind us as people start returning to the office. This trend is expected to reach Washington, D.C., which has been relatively deserted for years, with only a small percentage of federal workers working full time. The Department of Government Efficiency is keen on reversing this trend.
Undoubtedly, the Trump era has brought about a resurgence in dressing up. Trump is known for his consistent attire of a suit and tie, except when he is on the golf course. This sartorial choice makes a statement. However, his habit of leaving the top button of his suit jacket undone is not advisable. While Trump may not change this habit, it’s important that others do not follow suit.
It’s essential for men to adopt the practice of unbuttoning their coat when seated and buttoning it up when standing. This should become a subconscious action, whether wearing a long tie or a bow tie.
Double-breasted suits may not be in vogue currently, but their timeless appeal is undeniable. While they may not be suited for everyone, they remain a classic choice that I hope will make a comeback.
As for bow ties, my affinity for them stems from childhood when my mother dressed me in them. They offer practicality by staying out of the way. While they are often associated with eccentricity, I wear them out of personal preference.
When it comes to purchasing ties, eBay offers a wide range of options at affordable prices. Avoid ostentatious ties with cartoon characters or abstract designs. Stick to classic patterns and fabrics like silk, wool, or cotton.
When it comes to tying a knot, opt for well-known styles like the four-in-hand, half Windsor, or full Windsor. Avoid gimmicky knots like the infinity knot.
The resurgence of the necktie signifies a shift towards a more polished and refined appearance for men. It’s a positive change amidst various transformations in the fashion industry.
Perhaps, in the future, the menswear industry will reconsider detachable collars, reminiscent of pre-World War II fashion. While this change may take time to be embraced, celebrating incremental shifts is a step in the right direction.
Views expressed in this article are opinions of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of The Epoch Times.
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