Commentary
Having grown up in the United States, my first trip abroad opened my eyes to a surprising sight – unrefrigerated eggs in stores. This sparked my curiosity and initial assumption that this practice was due to the lack of modernization and wealth in other countries. It’s common for people to believe that their own country’s ways are the only correct ones.
As I continued to travel, I encountered this phenomenon repeatedly. Eventually, I came to realize that the United States stands out as the only country where eggs are refrigerated from the moment they are laid, both at the store and at home. The prevailing belief is that without refrigeration, eggs would spoil.
This raised the question: how do people in Europe, Latin America, and the Far East consume eggs without refrigeration without falling ill? Refrigerators only became a household staple in America in the mid-20th century, so how did people preserve eggs before then?
During a visit to a 1920s-era general store, I saw a jar of pickled eggs and assumed this was a method of preserving them. I thought maybe soaking them in vinegar was the key to keeping them fresh.
However, the truth is quite different. The United States is unique in requiring eggs to be washed before being sold. This washing removes the outer membrane, known as the cuticle, leaving the eggs susceptible to bacteria and spoilage, necessitating refrigeration.
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Conversely, if eggs are not washed and the cuticle remains intact, they can be left on the counter for an extended period without issue.
The USDA also advises against washing eggs, stating: “It’s not necessary or recommended for consumers to wash eggs and may actually increase the risk of contamination because the wash water can be ‘sucked’ into the egg through the pores in the shell. When the chicken lays the egg, a protective coating is put on the outside by the hen.”
I initially speculated that Americans might refrigerate eggs due to their affinity for new technology, a cultural trait dating back to the early days of the country. However, this assumption proved false in the case of egg washing regulations, which are mandated by the USDA.
The USDA’s requirement to wash eggs before sale, even on small farms, is a unique practice worldwide. This regulation stems from government standards that mandate the washing and sanitization of USDA-graded eggs using approved compounds.
Perhaps this practice is linked to America’s emphasis on cleanliness, evident in our frequent showers and hair washing. However, the real reason for egg washing became clear through a conversation with a local farm owner who expressed frustration with the USDA’s rules. Despite her free-range, well-maintained chickens producing clean eggs, she is still required to wash them before sale.
She explained that the industrial methods employed by Big Agriculture for mass egg production necessitate egg washing. These methods involve densely packed chickens in unsanitary conditions, leading to the need for washing and refrigeration.
Washing eggs is crucial to eliminate pathogens, and the industry pushed for government regulations to ensure a level playing field with small farmers. However, a farmer argues that her chickens and eggs are not dirty, questioning the need for washing and refrigeration. She also raises concerns about industrial farming practices and subsidies favoring big players over small farmers. The author questions the regulatory power of agencies like the USDA and FDA, especially in light of a recent Supreme Court decision limiting agency rule-making without legislative approval. The article ends with a hope for a future where Americans can sell unwashed eggs and abandon the practice of refrigeration, aligning with global norms.
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